The
Riddle of the Irish Sea
or
The Search for Sarum
or
Swallows and Amazons go
to Ireland
Tuesday 8th May 2001.
Another beautiful sunny morning with a cold north wind. The rooks were having a celebration gathering across Ballydorn Bay and oyster catchers were squabbling at the water's edge.
The Swallows and two of the Amazons were sheltering from the wind on the pontoon, soaking up the sun, idly chatting.
BANG !
The cool skipper of the Amazon (aka Phoenix) said "Sounds like a hatch closing?" Chris, the missing Amazon, was cooking breakfast. Above the stove was a shelf with a petrol cigarette lighter. The lighter had exploded. Fortunately the explosion was contained by a bag of self raising flour, which like the lighter was now useless. A lucky escape.
The plan was to sail down the lough to Quoile Yacht Club an and spend the night there. Or was it to stop at Quoile and wait for the tide to be right to go through the narrows at the entrance to the lough? We couldn't leave much before high water Strangford Lough because the water was swirling into the bay past the Down Cruising Club pontoon where we were moored. This meant that we would have to leave the lough around low water. Low water Belfast or low water Strangford Lough? Strangford lough is one hour and fifty minutes after Belfast. First member I always leave just before high water, which high water? We couldn't do that today. Why not stay overnight at Quoile? Well the forecast was E or ESE tomorrow - pilot says overfalls are bad in E to S winds - so we wouldn't be able to get out of the lough. So first decision - we leave the lough today! Second member you can't leave at low water Strangford lough because the Irish Seas tide is trying to get in and there's a huge wall of water. No way would he attempt ot go through that, he was obviously concerned about this. The pilot says leave on the last of the Strangford ebb. We thought about it scientifically and decided that at low water strangford lough lock the tides would be balanced so we would leave just before that time.
Friday 4th May 2001
Boarded Rice Pudding VIII 2045 hours and stowed my gear directed by skipper and owner Norman Whewell. It's a bit restricted so no extras were allowed, essentials only, the rest had to go back in the car. Suzie left for home.
I'd been asked if I would like to go with Norman and David Holden on a cruise to Strangford lough, wind and weather permitting, just before lunchtime the very same day, giving us only hours to sort sort ourselves out, which we did, well Suzie did.
I had to spend the night aboard because I couldn't get up to Glasson tomorrow when we were scheduled to leave on the tide.
Saturday 5th May 2001, 0950-2255, 76.9Nm
0900 hours (approx.) - Phoenix leaves the dock, Karen Faye and James were at the top of the jetty waving goodbye to spouse and dad. On board Phoenix were Colin Lambert, owner and skipper, Roger Pearce and Chris, Colin's friend from schooldays - were we to find out shocking things about Colin! I was on Rice Pudding on the hard and Norman was positioning the tractor ready to pull Rice Pudding into the launch position. David had arrived and was helping Norman.
0950 hours - Rice Pudding casts off.
There was very little wind, just the beginnings of a sea breeze. It was supposed to be north easterly 2-3. We motored out, by now Phoenix was out of sight. Zulu planned to be come, it was his idea, but his crew had to be back by Wednesday so they went to Ramsey and back. Cadenza too? Somewhere Sarum, with owner and skipper Wilf Holloway and Fred Webster on board was heading in the same direction. We motored for a while towards Lightning Knoll. Eventually we hoisted the sails and sailed off in a north westerly direction off the coast of Walney. We tacked and sailed on, glorious sunshine but the wind was so cold. We were able to leave most of the gas rigs to port but we were well off the rhum line.
Phoenix actually got too close to one of the rigs, the one with a support vessel. The support vessel launched a RIB with the three SBS type hunks, which chased Phoenix, pulled along side when they had already passed and warned them off. Well it makes life more colourful.
We were the first to arrive in Port St. Mary and tied up alongside the wall in the outer harbour. Phoenix were next but they went into the inner harbour. They could take the ground, we needed to be sure that it was soft sand or mud underneath us. Sarum arrived whilst we were asleep and tied up alongside a boat near us.
Sunday 6th May 2001, 1015-1910, 36Nm
Up shortly after seven and a half-hours walk along the cliff path south then round dexploring the inner harbour. No signs of life on Phoenix We left Sarum behind in Port St. Mary, they had declined to come to Strangford Lough with us and were intending to sail to Ardglass the next day.
Approaching the entrance to Strangford Lough the skipper had warned his crew that there would be overfalls and that the sea would be angry if they got there too soon or too late. Consequently Roger and Chris were prepared to have to 'shoot rapids'. The wind still being north to north easterly was in the 'safe' direction and despite arriving too early, used the wrong 'tide', the Belfast one and not the Strangford Lough one, it was a smooth entrance, once over the 'line' between the two tides we were practically stationary but that was the only difficulty encountered. We were at low water in the Irish Sea but once we'd got into the lough we were at one hour forty minutes before low water so we were pushing a fairly strong tide, about five knots. We didn't see the Routen Wheel, a famous whirlpool, it's somewhere just north of Gowland Beacon to the right of the charted transit going up.
The first suggestion was to stay somewhere through the narrows but at the bottom end of the lough and then go on to this place where we'd been told to go, somewhere with a ship for a clubhouse. If we did that it meant that we could have to spend an extra day in the lough as we'd be a the wrong end after two days so we decide to got to the 'ship' club first. By the time all the dust had settled it began to dawn on us that as we didn't know exactly where we were going and it would be dark when we got near we decided to look for somewhere near and Portaferry looked promising. A marina, not exactly Swallows and Amazons. but welcome after two longish days at sea.
Safely moored up we asked was there anywhere to go on a Sunday night and the Fiddlers Green pub was recommended. All fed and half the Amazons showered we trooped up to the Fiddlers Green, a pub in the corner of the square. Music was filling the night air and we squeezed inside, no room to step aside. The pub was full with young middle-aged and old, as well as us. The musicians looked an unlikely lot but turned out to be very talented and enthusiastically supported by the customers. The main singer played a plectrum acoustic/electric guitar. There was another singer who mostly played a bass guitar. The star was the accordion player, smallish accordion, who also was good with his mouth organ. The fourth member was a plumpish gentleman, they were all male, who played the bodhran? And the Jew's harp. A fifth member joined in later, a giant of a man with a small tin whistle. They play every kind of music you could imagine and the locals were ecstatic. We thoroughly enjoyed it and I hope some of the locals, one at home on leave from Ryan Air, enjoyed our company. Draught Guinness was the tipple.
Monday 7th May 2001, 1045-1215, 9.1Nm
Walking round trying to buy some films, one result of being unprepared, I came across the Ulsterbus garage and was filled with nostalgia for my previous visits to Belfast when I'd spent time with the Ulsterbus and Citybus people and at Walter Alexander's. There were a lot of Leylands amongst the buses parked on their May Day holiday, some of my life's work over the years.
The marina officer had told us the place we were looking for was Down Cruising Club at Ballydorn Bay. We found it on the chart and made plans to sail there. The Swallows motored all the way, sweeping up the remaining stretch of the narrows on the tide. The Amazons sailed up, waltzing around in all the whirlpools enjoying a completely different experience. Again it was a lovely day with a light breeze, just enough to make progress.
We sailed directly up the lough following the course set out on the local chart. There are supposed to be lots of poles marking rocks but we were told later that most of them get swept away in winter. The chart is quite threatening but it was easy enough to pick out the landmarks although they did seem to get harder to find as we progressed. We had a look at Strangford Sailing Club, all new and looking very posh and finally found the entrance to Ballydorn Bay and suddenly the magnificent sight of the lightship filled our vision. The entrance looked narrow and the tide was obviously swift as we swept in the boat weaving from side to side barely under control. There isn't an obvious 'channel' once you're in so we just sailed through the moored yachts, turned up into the wind and tide, fortunately both roughly in the same direction, and moored up alongside the club pontoon, just cleared the fueling berth. Somewhat bemused we were made very welcome by one of the members, of an age similar to us, well the ones about mine and Norman's age. He showed us round the 'clubhouse,, magnificently appointed below decks. Members were working on their boats on the pontoon, putting the finishing touches to them prior to taking up their moorings in the bay. The sun was beating down unbelievably bright and strong. Our third port of call in three days, we were duly relieved to be settled once more and idled around before our meal. We had a snack and planned to have our evening meal at Daft Eddy's, the local pub, fast food centre and restaurant on the nearby island, joined by a causeway. The Amazons set off to explore for the rest of the afternoon, walking about three miles south without finding any significant signs of shops etc. I bumped into them later and we all retired to Daft Eddy's for a refreshing drink (fizzy water). Of course it was May Day Bank Holiday Monday so there were lots of people milling around the place and others just sitting on the terrace or lying on the lawns soaking up the sun.
Later the meal was excellent, I had poached sea trout and side salad, the others had Guinness pie. Now sadly the Down Cruising Club expected all it's members to have gone home on Monday night so emergency preparations had to be made to open the bar fro a short while. The club relies on visitors spending money over the bar so they upset twice, once for not offering us their high standard of hospitality and also because of the money that they could have taken. It was during this short interval that we were shown the 'scenic route' back down the lough. Two of the Amazons peeled of to Daft Eddy's again before they eventually went to sleep.
Tuesday 8th May 2001, again, 1348-2030, 38.5Nm
The Amazons disappeared, they went of in search of more civilization. The Swallows wandered round to the Strangford Sailing Club, a super new clubhouse and facilities built with the help of Lottery money and officially opened in July of last year by the president of the RYA. We introduced ourselves and again were made very welcome by the members. We admired their club and took photos of their mast 'crane' - a development that is still at the back of our minds for Glasson.
We arrived at Quoile after our most pleasant day's sail, weaving in and out of the islands on the west side of the lough following the course that a kind and genuine member had shown us on the chart in the 'clubhouse' the evening before.
Here, beside photographing their mast lift, we asked more local members when was the best time to go through the narrows. "I always go just before high water". Another members said it was OK to leave at any time on the ebb with a northerly but not a southerly, don't bother. Actually Alec Wilson had recommended the lightship but he did tell us that once we were inside the lough we'd never get out. We were beginning to understand what he had meant.
We also met the member who designs and constructs their launching trolleys, all very robust, functional and impressive. Most boats were fin or long keel.
We left Quoile at about 1610 hours. Once clear of Quoile and almost back into the main lough we, in Dave's words, saw some "Jesus seals". They appeared to be basking on top of the water, seven of them. They were on a reef, which fortunately was marked on the chart but unfortunately the chart gave the impression that the reef was submerged and not on the surface! No problem we gave it a fairly wide berth and carried on down the lough, gradually being picked up by the tide. Back passed Portaferry, soon we were doing twelve knots through the water. Through the binoculars we couldn't see the wall of water (a Severn bore type of phenomena?), this must happen when the wind is from the south. Not even white water. We never got to thirteen knots, much to our skippers disappointment, but we traversed the entrance smoothly, being jigged about a bit, and made our way inside of St. Patrick's Island and on course for Ardglass.
We arrived at Ardglass early evening. 54 15.710'N 005 36.385'W. Lovely marina, in terms of 'facilities' and open 24 hours as well. At Portaferry the 'facilities' close down at 2000 hours till 0800 hours. Down Sailing club lock up at 2200 hours till 1000 hours. We were allocated a place on the pontoons and guided the Amazons alongside the same pontoon a few minutes later. In a nearby berth was the mystery ship Sarum! But where were the crew? According to the marina officer they were sampling all the delights of the town and were thoroughly enjoying themselves. We tidied up and made our way to the recommended chipshop, the Lighthouse, the Amazons made straight for the recommended pub, Nellie's or the Lighthouse. Half an hour later Norman and Roger were playing two fishermen at pool. The pub was a bit basic but clean and welcoming. We had an interesting few hours there.
Wednesday 9th May 2001,1115-1940, 38.5Nm
Early morning visit to the toilets revealed that once again Sarum had slipped away unnoticed. Sadly early this morning Norman vomited a couple of times, he'd contracted food poisoning. He'd had haddock whereas Dave and me had had cod. Norman was inclined only to lie down and hope it would go away. We went to the local chemist and got some tablets and directions. Norman elected to sail rather than stay. Dave, as first mate, took over a skipper and we cast off.
The plans had been discussed the night before and the destination was Peel, Isle of Man. We were on the way home. The wind turned out to be on the nose, which wasn't a problem to the Amazons, long keel and inboard motor. The waves were bigger than the wind and poor Norman had an unpleasant ride. Yes - we should have gone to Port St. Mary but we didn't. We tacked a few times and tried to sail but there wasn't enough wind. If the waves had matched the wind we'd have been able to motor comfortably towards our destination.
Many hours later we arrived at Peel. Of course the harbour had dried out and it was almost low water. There was plenty of space along the wall but we were 'encouraged' by the local fishermen to go right to the lifeboat house end of the outer breakwater and raft up alongside a small yacht already moored there. At first, although there was enough water we thought, because of the trawlers and the wind blowing us onto the wide lighthouse slip. We roped Phoenix round and then they roped us alongside. I woke up for my usual urination at about 0200 hours and true enough the wall was lined with big trawlers, two deep, along it's entire length. When I woke up for my next relief at about 0630 hours there were only three left , they'd nearly all put to sea, the ones that we thought it would be OK to raft up alongside because they didn't even look seaworthy had gone too. The fishermen hadn't been 'leading us on' after all Actually we had a very good night alongside at Peel. The Amazons and Dave explored some of Peel's night haunts, sadly getting wet through in our first rain shower of the holiday. It was our first mild night too, the cloud cover no doubt.
Thursday 10th May 2001, 1000-1800, 40.3Nm
We'd been promised drizzle all day and actually it was dry when we prepared to go back to sea and not unpleasant at all, brief glimpses of the sun from time to time.
Norman was a little better but fragile, however he took over again as skipper and appeared to be normal.
Today we were trying to make Douglas and we set off in time to get through the Calf sound, passage no. 4 in Robert Kemp's old pilot, at the right moment. Looking through the old pilot book, 1975, it's interesting to see how much the ports have changed.
We set off and put the sails up once we had got beyond the breakwater and headed south. A promising start. There wasn't much wind so we put the Genoa up. We were ghosting along quite nicely and then whoosh we got a sudden squall. It only lasted for a few minutes but long enough to pick us up and carry us forward at over ten knots.
We motor-sailed through the sound and pointed up as far as we could but we were sailing away from our target. The amazons were motor-sailing on the course for Douglas. We seemed miles away from Langress Point but on the new tacked we were underneath the lighthouse. Tacking away leaving the lighthouse behind us we were disappointed to only have made a couple of miles when we tacked back again. Having been in front of Phoenix we were now tacking across her stern.
We got to Douglas and had to stand outside for ten minutes to allow a ferry to dock, the Ben My Cree. Whilst we were in Douglas we saw a couple of the seacats. We moored up on the visitors pontoon alongside the outer breakwater. Phoenix was ready to take our lines. The local boats were preparing for their Thursday evening race.
Walking into the town I passed the Solway Harvester. Coming back with Norman after visiting the Douglas Bay Sailing Club, where again we were made to feel welcome, for 'refreshment' Norman pointed out the decomposing flowers tied to her hand rails. It's time like those when I think we are foolish to go out and temp the sea. Very few sea fishermen sail for pleasure.
The sailing club is in new premises alongside the top, southern?, side of the inner harbour. The new marina pontoons are all gleaming but vacant, the marina not yet open. When the marina is finished all the pontoons are already taken up and it's said it will not be for visitors. Visitors wishing to go into the inner harbour will have to tie up alongside the harbour walls. This isn't really a hardship as now there is water in the inner harbour all the time. What looks like a Glasson type 'dockgate' keeps the water in, access being a few hours either side of high water. We met a crew from the other boat on the pontoon, a forty-five footer, xxxxxxxxof Hoyle. The skipper had taken ten years to refurbish her, she'd been an insurance write off, and she was in superb condition. The crew, Gail and Brian?, yes a woman who enjoys sailing, mind you most of our wives probably would if we had forty-five footers, were from the Wirral but they keep the boat at the Liverpool marina. They are going to look out for us in three weeks time when we got to Liverpool as we return from Conway and Beaumaris after Spring Bank Holiday.
A swell had developed by the time we got back to the boat. The Amazons had left for town ahead of us and they never made it to the sailing club. Also they'd planned an early start. Anyway the boats were rocking up and down and the metal pontoons were clanking and sounded just like the roll on roll off ferry at Fleetwood. Of all the nights that was the best night's sleep that I'd had all the holiday!
We were unsure what to do the next day as the wind was on the nose for Piel, our preferred destination. Phoenix had decide to motor to Piel if necessary. We'd decided to try and sail towards Whitehaven and see how things turned out.
Friday 11th May 2001, 0930-1918, 51.8Nm
We rose to find Phoenix's vacant berth behind us. We lazily prepared ourselves. The swell had gone and the sea had flattened outside the harbour so we were cautiously optimistic. Phoenix called later to say that they were able to sail so we cast off and made for home. We breakfasted on passage and sorted ourselves out. The wind was light so we put the Genoa up again, this time with a little excitement. The tack of the Genoa was fixed to the stemhead roller.
CRACK!
The force on the luff had pulled the roller off the stemhead, breaking the casting in two and ripping out the rivets holding it! It took us an hour to fasten the sail down again. Five miles lost, sadly the wind was to drop later and we paid for our lust for speed. We'd wanted to catch Phoenix up!
We sailed into Piel Harbour and Sarum was there but again no signs of the crew. Phoenix had wined and dined and were ready to go ashore. Norman and Dave went with them and I stayed on board, I wasn't feeling very well and welcomed the solitude of the calm evening with the sun setting and the birds singing.
Moonshine was also there, Peter Johnson skipper and owner and Martin Topping as crew. Sailed out for the night and going back to Glasson tomorrow.
They offered to take me ashore but I still didn't feel up to it. There are times when putting on the oilskins and boots is a real drag or me. The crew from Sarum had also gone ashore and they all had good crack, Rod relating his winter exploits and achievements to them.
Saturday 12th May 2001, 1055-1400, 16.6Nm
A beautiful sunny morning again. We had been unbelievably lucky with the weather, just a little rain on the Thursday night. Plenty of sun and fair winds nearly all the time, except that on some days they were just a point out in the wrong direction. We sailed most of the way back but had to motor the last mile to River Lune No. 1 buoy. We chose to motor up the channel charting the position of all the buoys, except no. 2, on the GPS, the resultant chart you have already seen.
Plenty of room on board.
The Icom navigation system is fantastic.
A thoroughly good holiday, eight ports of call visited, staying over in seven of them, a different mooring every night.
Down Cruising Club, Ballydorn Bay, Strangford Lough.
The 'clubhouse' is the old lightship Petrel, acquired by he club, after spotting an advert for the sale by tender of the Irish Lights lightship. Sadly their tender was too low but fortuitously, with the intervention of the Irish Lights Commission, who persuaded the successful tender, Hammond Lane to sell the boat to Down CC as it was realised that the ship was of traditional riveted and caulked construction, an historic iron ship, they managed to get the ship.
Shelf Life. The resulting 'pieces' of the offending lighter and the ruined flour.
Ferrari? Phoenix rising to the challenge of the open sea setting out for Peel, I.O.M.