Tuesday 8th June.

As we did not want to return back up the Seine to Honfleur we decided to make for Calais Via the river L'Oise and on through the canal system. At13.15hrs we turned the boat round and headed back to Conflans-Ste-Honorine which lies at the junction of the Seine and the L'Oise.
Conflans-Ste-Honorine is noted as the home base of the barge trade. The sight of all the barges rafted three and four together and stretching along the river bank for miles is awesome. They even have their own church and hospital. On the way back to the L'Oise the Seine was very busy with barges passing from all directions and it was with great relieve to reach the confluence of the two rivers. We dodged our way across river and turned onto the river L'Oise and there waiting for us was a nice little gap amongst the many barges. We made fast and Irene went ashore to get some French loaves and some Camembert cheese while I topped up the tanks with fresh water. On Irene's return we had lunch. Later 9K along the river we came across a beautiful little marina at a town called Cergy. We were surprised to find the mooring fees were only 8 Euros per night and that included the showers and electricity. We had covered another 42 miles.
Wenesday.9th June. The harbour masters daughter could speak very good English and she gave Irene the directions to the local mall and said we could get a train into Paris from there.

Irene made a pack lunch and off we set for the railway station where we met a young Frenchman whose name was Mathew . He said he also was going to Paris also and he would help us find our train and what station to alight from in Paris so we would be close to the Eiffel Tower. We made our way round the sights of Paris and had a wonderful day. The sun was still belting down and we wearily made our way back to Cergy and the marina. The marina was built to resemble the marina at Port Grimaud in the south of France and it comes up to all expectations. We really enjoyed our stay here and both agreed we would be sorry to leave.

Thursday, 10th June.

It was 10.35hrs when we left the marina. Once again the sun was shining and everything was going well, we navigated two large locks and at 14.57 we reached a small town called Beaumont- sur -Oise where we stopped and had lunch.

The barge traffic was busy here and when they passed by their wash was unbearable so we decided to move on and try to find a quieter place. At 18.40hrs we arrived at St-Leu-d'Essernt and we had travelled 30 miles so we found a nice mooring and stayed the night. We were later joined by a large Dutch motor cruiser and her crew Valtuer and his wife whose name I don't recall came to have a chat. They were very interesting and we talked about cruising the rivers and canals .It seems to be the correct way to tour the continental waterways is to have your boat moored in one of these small inexpensive marinas and fly out to your boat each year.
Friday ,11th, June. Irene seemed to be bearing up well to the sad news of her brothers illness and I new she really wanted to see him there was also the disappointment of cutting our trip short and not going down to the Med as planned but we both agreed it was the right thing to do so it didn't seem so bad.

We left the moorings at 09.45 and we were soon amongst the barges, the barges are something else sometimes towing another barge and sometimes in convoy ,they seem to arrive like busses ,lots of them or none at all. The views of the open countryside leaves you breathless it is absolutely untouched and so beautiful .It is certainly consoling us from our great disappointment. We negotiated three locks today and completed another 30 miles. We were now in the town of Margny-Les-Comiegne and we were moored in a tiny marina called club d' avison
and believe it or not mooring was free for the first two nights.

Saturday, 12th June.

After a nice quite night in the marina we departed at 08.45hrs and was once again we were soon amongst the barges one of whom decided to take a dislike to us, the skipper was rather a large lady with a short fuse .When we had to share a lock with her and two other barges she seemed to think we were holding her up. The lock keeper called us into the lock before her and when she entered she brought her enormous barge within touching distance of us. We were released first from the lock so we pulled over to bank and let the barges get on their way. We locked through another five locks without the barges and when we arrived at Chauny our next port of call, we decided to pull into a space behind a large barge and as we approached the barge started to reverse upon us. Yes it was our friend the large lady with the short fuse. We got out of her way and carried a little farther down the river were we found a small marina. Another 25 miles completed , we seem to be making good progress.
Sunday 13th June.10.18hrs. After using the washing machine and doing a little shopping then topping up with diesel and water we made our way out of the marina and into the main stream of the river. We soon arrived at the locks that start the entrance to Le Canal De Saint-Quentin although the locks on the previous rivers had all been manned and we had no work to do, the locks on the St Quentin were all fully mechanized and automatically opened and closed as you pass through radar beams as you approached them making for a pleasant journey with no waiting.
We enjoyed the journey to St Quentin ,we went through eleven locks most only taking ten to fifteen minutes and we also covered 38 miles and arrived at 15.45hrs.

We moored in the marina and we found the staff very helpful and pleasant had a good nights rest and recharged our energy.

Monday , 14th June.

Another nice day . We did a little shopping before casting off at 10.55 hrs we new that today was going to be quite interesting for on our way stood lots of locks and two tunnels .
After completing four locks we arrived at our first tunnel the time was 12.30. Hrs so we stopped for lunch and to study the procedure for negotiating through the tunnels. We waited at the first tunnel as instructed in the navicarte (a little book which is essential for navigating these waterways) but a boat going in the opposite direction advised us to proceed and wait for instructions at the second tunnel. Approaching the first tunnel we found we could see straight through to the other side, (be itonly a small white dot )so without any hesitation I put the navigation lights on and proceeded through . This tunnel is 1098m long. We arrived at the second tunnel at14.50hrs and moored behind a large Dutch barge. To go through this tunnel (souterrain de Bellicourt) which is 5670m long you have to be towed through and only proceed under strict instructions from the waterway officials. We were approached by one of the officials and after supplying all the requested documents we were told to put a tow line of no less than ten metres onto the Dutch barge which was privately owned and her skipper was very helpful by tying us on to his stern cleat. The tunnel convoy system only operates twice a day, Northbound at 6.30 and 15.00 hrs, southbound 1200 hrs and19.30hrs. The cost to be towed through was 19Euro's. At 15.20 we were towed into the tunnel and my the boat skills whilst being towed was put to the limits. The tunnel had small lights in the uppermost part of the arch and I tried to keep in line with them, I could also see the stern light from the barge.
All went well till the barge kept almost stopping and because I had no engine power it made the boat very difficult to steer.

We reached the end of the tunnel at17.30hrs and was promptly cast off from the barge and made our way to the three locks at Honnecourt-s-Escaut. At the third lock there was a large Dutch cruiser moored in the pound and as it looked a good place to moor for the night we pulled in astern of her. The time 18.30hrs and we had travelled 15 miles. We were later treated to a wonderful experience when a lady approached our boat and introduced herself as Nellie ,she welcomed us and she said that she lived at the house close to the locks where she had picked some herbs from her garden. She offered them to Irene along with a large bag of sweets that had been made locally and to top it all she gave Irene a beautiful rose she had cut from her garden
These are moments to cherish and remember, how some people can be so kind and generous. We were really touched.

Later we went for a stroll in the tiny village that adorned the canal banks and to our amazement we came across a very large shrine to Our Lady of Lourdes and it was bedecked from head to toe in a beautiful array of flowers. We were so glad we had stopped here and we retired to our bunks that evening with a feeling of well being.
Tuesday15th, June. 08.30hrs. Today we completed fifteen locks and 15miles and arrived at Cambrai at 15.30hrs. We moored in the large basin and settle down for lunch ,there was a lot of people in this area they were walking along the embankment and they to be interested on what was going on in our boat so we later moved onto the pontoon back on the river next to another boat. It was a lot Quieter there. Irene was very upset when she heard her brothers health had deteriorated and he was now bedridden. Our phone was playing up so I suggested that she should write to him.

Wednesday.16th June.

We went into town early this morning, we called at the bank and got some cash and we also called at the phone shop to try and get the phone sorted. We were unlucky with the phone and we returned to the boat and we cast off at 10.00hrs. After two locks and around four miles we turned left into the canal De La Sense'e.
Arriving at the junction at Courchelettes we turned off the main canal into a very small and narrow canal called La Scarpe Mayenne which led down to a pontoon in the village of Douai. We arrived at 17.30.hrs having travelled another 20 miles and come through three locks. It was very quite down here , we must have been the talk of the village as lots of people came to look at the boat and wave to us.

Thursday 17th June.

We were away at 08.15 hrs this morning hoping to get as far as possible. We were trying to make the canal L'Aa but disaster struck and I don't know how we managed it but we got completely lost , we somehow missed our turning and we were on our way to Dunkerque and by the time we realised the time was 19.00hrs and we had travelled around ten miles to far and negotiated the largest lock we have seen , sharing with the most enormous ship. We retraced our steps until we found a place to rest. We tallied 66miles today.

Friday 18th June.

We finally got to Watten at 19.00hrs and we had completed another 20 miles. We moored on a pontoon on the edge of town and after lunch we went for a stroll and called in at the local hostelry. We were introduced to the local mayor and he made quite a fuss about us. (what is it like to be famous).

Saturday 19th,June.

Today is going to be the last day of our journey through the French canals so we were quite exited at the prospect of being by the seaside once again. We were unfortunate when we arrived at the canal De Calais a large barge towing another barge had just turned in before us. He was doing 2 knots maximum and scraping the bottom of the canal most of the time. Just after lunchtime the barges came to a stop and we squeezed passed them. The lock keeper at Sainte marie Kerque asked Irene if we were going through to Calais . She informed her that there is three manned swing bridges on the way and if we were going all the way through she would inform the bridge keeper of our intentions. We arrived at the first of the three swing bridges at 13.00hrs and had to wait till 14.30hrs for the lockkeeper to arrive. He arrived in a van and when we went through the bridge he signalled he would be at the next bridge when we arrive. And there he was with the lights on green and the bridge open. Apparently he operates all the bridges running between them in his little van. As we arrived at the last swing bridge the lights were on green and as we proceeded we were almost rammed by a small yacht which had come through the opposite way against the lights. A near disaster after all the way we had travelled. It was16.00hrs when we arrived at the outer Basin De Carnot the entrance to the port of Calais On this leg we had completed 13 miles.

I called the harbour master and he informed me that the lock would not be open until 01.00hrs. We were dismayed at the prospect of having to wait such a long time and the most worrying matter of all was the sight of all the immigrants that swarmed around the basins walls. After a while we saw the small yacht that almost rammed us enter the basin and head straight for the lock gates , I immediately rushed round to the locks and requested we were also allowed through and with great relieve my request was granted. We entered the inner basin and were allocated a spot against the harbour wall and informed that it would be the swing bridge that would not be operated until 01.00hrs .
At this point I would like to total the mileage we have covered for the trip so far. From Glasson via Honfluer and on to Paris retuning to Calais we have covered 1145 miles. (I think that deserves a wee half.)

We past the time away as best we could and when 01.00hrs approached I radioed the harbour master to open the swing bridge for us. I got no reply so I called repeatedly for the next half hour. It suddenly dawned on me that because we were low against the harbour wall and our mast was still down we probably would not be heard. Irene came up with an idea, perhaps if we let go and circled around the centre of the basin she would flash a torchlight towards the bridge tower. time was now 02.00hrs as I cast off and we started to circle around in the basin whilst Irene did the torch work. After our third circumference of the basin, the swing bridge miracles sly opened. Irene did us proud this night. (What a woman.)

We went through the swing bridge to what I can only describe as sheer hell, it was complete darkness yet all the harbour lights were shining up above. We knew that we had to go down the walled channel and then turn to port but I got hopelessly disorientated and Irene was panicking because of the huge ferry approaching us head on. As we moved out into the arrie're port we ran into a force 6 , it was a nightmare. Irene spotted the moorings off to port, we could see several yachts pitching up and down on their buoys. I crawled my way up front and after several attempts I finally secured to one of the vacant moorings . I clambered back inside and when I was satisfied we were safely secured I went to my bunk feeling rather seasick . Irene made herself some soup and followed later. (she offered me some soup but my reply was unprintable).

Sunday 20th June.

The force 6 we encountered last night had blown itself out but the water in the harbour was still very lumpy, the reason for this is when the waves hit the harbour wall they bounce back making the moorings uncomfortable.
The marina is guarded by a swing bridge and a lock . The opening times are infrequent and only for a few minutes 2h, and1h, before high water and 1h afterwards. When the bridge and locks opened lots of yachts came pouring out and when the green entrance lights beckoned, lots of yachts went pouring in with us amongst them. As you enter the marina there is a very long pontoon to starboard and a member of the marina staff beckoned us there .We made fast and now we had to raise the mast and wait for a window to cross the English channel to Ramsgate.

Monday 21st June.

Irene went off to pay for the licence and the fee for the tow through the tunnel. We should have paid the licence fees at Roan but we were warned not to leave the boat and also we were not approached by any officials. While Irene was away I approached the crew of 'Gamble of Wight' the yacht moored astern of us .
The crew consisted of three burly lads and I asked if they could lend a hand to raise our mast, they readily agreed and the mast was up in minutes.

The marina at Calais is a very good one and with all the surrounding amenities to hand. Shops, trains ,buses, and the ferries of course , if you had to stay and wait for the weather this is the place to be.
We talked about the possibility of Irene going home by ferry to see her brother but the weather worsened and the next day the ferries were cancelled. We waited in Calais a further five days waiting for a window and during that time we sat through a force eleven and a force eight .
The harbour master stated that this was the worse weather they had seen for twenty-five years.

We did get some time around Calais and we even got a bus ride to Carefour which is one of those giant hypermarkets.
As you can imagine there were lots of other people waiting to sail off to their planned destinations and we made lots of new friends (we were all in the same boat , so to speak. )

Saturday 26th June.

We got a good forecast this morning ,a force four
With a new low coming in on Sunday evening. So we decided to cross the channel and make for Ramsgate.
The sea had not settled down to well after the storms that had prevailed all week and was still a little lumpy but it was nothing we could not handle . We encountered one or two ferries and thee tugs towing enormous loads which we had to stand off and wait for the first of them to pass then we made a dash between the first and second . We soon had the East Goodwin light in our sights and we made our way around the Goodwin sands till we reached the North side of Goodwin Knoll. We then made our way into Ramsgate. We had covered 33 miles today.

My planned route from Ramsgate was to sail up the East coast to Boston and make our way home inland from there but we changed our plans and decided it might be a quicker and more pleasant route to go up the river Thames join the Kennet and Avon canal and exit at Bristol making our way home up the West coast.

Sunday 27th June.

We dropped the main mast this morning and we left Ramsgate at 10.20hrs.The weather forecast gave a force 4 with a 6to 7 later so we planned to go up the river Swale inside the Isle of Sheppy as we had been advised it was good for shelter and there was plenty of moorings. All went well till around 14.00hrs and we were off Herne Bay. The wind had started to pick up and the sea became very uncomfortable . By the time we reached the Cardinal buoy at Witstable Street we were in a full blown storm.
The waves were relentlessly bearing down on us in short steep rows and the wind was whipping them up into a frenzy, one minute we were thrown down in a trough the next minute we were up in the air. There was no time to panic or be afraid all I could do is concentrate on keeping the boats nose into the wind and waves. Irene came by my side to give me moral support and help me by spotting any deviation I might have made. The boat was now slamming very heavily and the mast which was tied down on the cabin roof was also slamming and actually starting to move forward. I thanked the heavens I had tied the mast down with more vigour than I normally do. I can only describe the trauma we both went through as a complete nightmare, it must have taken at least one hour to get round the headland at Shell Ness and into comparative safety. When we reached the moorings at Faversham Spit and to our dismay they were all taken, so we reluctantly carried on. The more we advanced down the river , the calmer the weather got and by the time we reached Kingsferry Bridge the sun was shining. There was some moorings here and against the advice of some locals we met in Ramsgate who had told us we would be able to go under the bridge with our mizzen mast raised we both agreed that the mast would be to high to go under the bridge, so we picked up one of the moorings. We did not say much to each other but I know what we were both thinking. The time was19.15hrs and we had covered 25.08 miles.
Monday 28th June. I was awakened by Irene at 03.00hrs and she suggested that we take down the mizzen mast whilst the river was low and slack. I thought it was a good idea because we would be ready to cast off as soon as daybreak arrived and it would enable us to make Queensborough , and wait for the tide to Sheerness and the Thames.

At 08.30hrs we left Kingsferry and made the short run up to Queensborough and moored against the waiting pontoon. We did a little shopping , had lunch and settled down to wait for the time of departure which is one and a half hours before low water.
The harbour master paid us a visit and Irene told him of our plight out in the estuary yesterday, he replied that we were lucky in respect that they had to rescue a boat much larger than ours who had also got caught out in the storm. Irene asked did he know what force the storm had been and he replied force eight my love.

FROM THE THAMES TO THE AVON.

We left Queensborough at 1400.hrs and we were soon off Sheerness where we met the incoming flood up the Thames. Navigating the Thames was easy, we just kept in the buoyed channel and went with the flow keeping well out of the way of the big ships that chase up behind you.
When we were approaching Tilbury Docks the river pilot came along side us and said we should be a lot closer to the bank as a large ship
Was approaching from our rear. We made our way over and when the ship arrived it was gigantic. We stayed well inshore and to our surprise we came to a small yacht club just passed the docks. There was plenty of spare moorings dotted about so we decided to call it a day and we picked one up. The time was18.15hrs and we had travelled 28.07miles. The yacht club was called Thurrock Y,C, and we were visited by two of its members who made us very welcome. They invited us to call at the clubhouse that evening and they also gave us on a slip of paper with the time we should leave to catch the tide through London.
Tuesday 29th June. We left Thurrock Y,C, at 10.21hrs and made our way up into the heart of London . Irene was busy with the camera as we passed through the Thames barrier and on to Tower bridge, the Houses of Parliament, the London Eye and the rest of the wonderful sights you would expect to see when sailing up the Thames. I must say once again that these big rivers do not cater for little pleasure craft and the many barges and very large ferries that fly to and through do not have much time for you.

It was with great relief when we finally found some where we could moor and we pulled alongside a large barge on Chelsea Pier.
We had covered another 20 miles.
The pier master came down to see us and advised us to move to the inside of the pier , he said that we would escape from the wash of the trip boats and barges. We took his advice and moved round the pier and as we approached the other side he was there waiting for us .He took our lines and helped fasten us in , we even got electric supplied
The pier masters name is Alan Gratten, he used to live in Blackpool and he moored his boat at Glasson. Nothing was to much trouble and he helped us in many ways, he is a credit to his profession.
Wednesday 30th June. We cast of at 11.30hrs to catch the locks at Teddington which only operate two hours either side of high water.

After Teddington locks the Thames is none tidal and it is such a relieve to amble along without all the hustle and bustle of the previous section.
We found a nice place to moor at Hampton Court where we decided to stay for the night . We covered a further 13 miles today.

Thursday 1st July. We covered another 15 miles today and we have come through seven locks. The locks on the Thames are all manned and it is a pleasure to navigate this beautiful river. We are at some lovely moorings at Laleham and after lunch we plan a walk to Staines
A further two and half miles up the river. We topped up the mobile phone did a little shopping and before returning to Salty Fiddler we treated ourselves to a Big Mac.

Friday 2nd July.

We decided to call at the marina which lay on the opposite bank to where we were moored and asked if they could have a look at our stern gland which was leaking, but they refused saying they were far to busy. Later a chap came along in a narrow boat and helped us out with his large array of spanners.
We later made our way up to Runnymeade passing through a further three locks and around 5 miles.

Saturday 3rd July.

At Runnymeade we were visited by my Daughter Michelle and my Granddaughter Jade. They brought us a bottle of champagne to celebrate our safe arrival back in Britain. We were also treated to a wonderful meal at an Italian restaurant. We had a glorious day and it was all rounded up with a stroll in the park.

Sunday 4th July.

The weather has been fine and sunny for the past few days and today was no different. After lunch Irene's nephew Ian and his bride to be Joanne arrived and they brought us some wine.
They wanted to be sure that we would make their wedding in August and we assured them that we would be there.
We enjoyed another night at Runnymeade and promised ourselves we would return there one day.

Monday 5th July .

We were off at 09.55hrs this morning and we were making for Reading at the junction with the Kennet and Avon canal.
We passed through sixteen locks and covered 37 miles. This was a very pleasant part of our cruise sailing through Windsor, Maidenhead, and Henley on Thames to name just a few. We even sailed along the Oxford and Cambridge boat race course. We arrived at Reading and to our delight the moorings are right alongside a large supermarket .We quickly made our way to the supermarket and we bought lots of goodies and later had a great feast. (cream cakes ect) .
From Queensbury to Reading we have navigated on the Thames for 118.07 miles Our total mileage to date is 1322.05 miles.

THROUGH THE KENNET AND AVON CANAL.

Tuesday 6th July. We were off early again this morning and after negotiating the junction at Kennet Mouth we were soon at Blakes lock, the entrance to the Kennet and Avon canal. At this point you are required to pay for the permit to navigate the canal. We paid our dues and made our way through Reading. After a while we were negotiating one of the many locks and every time I closed the top gates and walked down to operate the bottom gates, the top gates would reopen. I was getting very frustrated when a chap approached and held the top gates closed while I operated the bottom gates .He told me he had the same trouble getting his small narrow boat through and someone had come along and helped him through. We decided we would share the remaining locks and make work a little easier.
We spent the rest of the day helping each other through the locks . Our friends had a near disaster in one of the locks when there narrow boat was almost turned over .Sue ,bills wife was very lucky not to go into the lock but their engine was flooded we got as far as Newbury after 21 locks and 18 miles.
There is a boat engineers at Newbury and Bill decided to leave his stricken boat there and return home until it could be repaired .We stayed at Newbury on Wednesday and Thursday.

Friday 9th July.

Today we were back on our own again and we made
Great Bedwin .We heard some devastating news about the locks at Weston , some trip boat had run into the lock gates and demolished them. They were now closed until further notice.

Sat 10th July.

We have completed 23miles and 35locks since we left Newbury and we are now resting at Pewsey.

Sunday 11th July

We did The sixteen lock flight at Devizes today and we decided to take a well earned rest.
We spent the next two days making our way through Bath and finally arrived at Weston lock on Wednesday. Irene heard from her son Stuart and he offered to come and take her home and see her brother Bob.
We did not know how long we would be delayed at the locks and we got to know Bath quite well with our several walks around the city.
We made two calls at the local launderette and washed our complete wardrobe including our sleeping bags.

Friday 16th July .

This morning the lock keeper informed us that the locks would be reopening at 14.00hrs and needless to say we were ready and willing . The time of departure arrived and we were then locked down into the none tidal river Avon.
The river Avon was very pleasant and we took our time taking in the beauty that bestowed the river banks and soaking up the sunshine.
We arrived at Hanam lock which is also the toll lock and the lock keeper came down to greet us, we were surprised to find it was Trever the lock keeper from Weston lock. He lived in the beautiful lock keepers cottage by the side of the river and he invited us to meet his family we all sat on the patio sipping a cool beer . Another boat arrived at the lock and we joined them and shared the lock.

We arrived in Bristol at lunchtime and called the harbour master to open the swing bridge that bars the way into the floating harbour at 14.00hrs the bridge opened and we made our way to a large pontoon that lies almost in the city centre. We made fast behind a narrow boat.
Navigating the Kennet And Avon Canal we had completed 94 miles and worked our way through 105 locks.
After lunch we exchange pleasantries with the crew of the narrow boat who introduced themselves as Michael and Pat and they reminded us that we had met earlier in the week at Weston lock.
That evening the place came alive ,all the surrounding buildings were lit up with laser beams and the water was busy with lots of boats full of sightseers rushing up and down the harbour. We sat on our boat with a bottle of wine and enjoyed all the entertainment.

Saturday 17th July.

Michael offered to lend a hand to raise our mast this morning before he left for home , he was leaving his boat in the harbour for a while before returning up the Avon and back on the canal system.
After lunch Irene and I decided to make our way down to the marina and make ready for a early start the following morning but when we arrived at the marina we were disappointed to find there was no berths available but they kindly let us stay on the waiting pontoon provided we left early the following morning. Because we were experiencing difficulty using the radio , we visited the chandlery and invested in a new handheld radio.
We later visited the harbour master and paid for our stay in the harbour. He advised us that if we intended to leave in the morning we should go down to the locks and book our passage through two main road swing bridges and out into the tidal Avon.
The Dock Master Captain Bigwood was very helpful, he informed us that they do three lockings, 2hours, 35 minutes ,1hour 25 minutes, and 30 minutes before high water and he advised us to depart on the second locking.

Sunday 18th July.

We were up early this morning , we had to negotiate the two swing bridges that were operated by the Dock Master and his staff. We made our way into the Cumberland basin and called the Watch house informing them of our arrival .
We were immediately called through the first bridge but we had to stand on for a while at the second bridge which is enormous and spans a very busy road . The bridge eventually opened and we were called in to the gigantic ship lock.

The time was 0844. We must have looked so tiny as we descended down the lock And when the lock gates opened the great expanse of the river was awesome. (Not for the faint hearted.) Our lines were cast off and we made our way out into the river.

Once out there Irene began to take pictures whilst I concentrated on Navigating safely down the river.

We soon approached the Clifton Suspension Bridge so Irene went to the stern of the boat to get some close ups as we passed under it.
She immediately drew my attention to the bellowing from the engine cover .I slowed the engine and Irene took over the steering and when I lifted the engine cover the whole place became engulfed in smoke and steam . I called to Irene to stop the engine and try to keep the boat on course . There was no fire so we were in no immediate danger. I coupled the fuel tank to the auxiliary engine and lowered it via the bracket into the water taking a lump out of my finger in the process and on the second attempt of trying to start it she fired away.

Irene already had the helm hard over in an attempt to turn the boat round and retrace our steps back to the lock. She shouted for more power as the boat was now strewn across the river and heading for the rocks that lay along the bank. I held the throttle wide open and watched helplessly as Irene stuck to her task and turn the boat round narrowly missing the rocky banks. We were some two to three miles down the river and I was repeatedly calling the Dock Master on our newly acquired handheld but I was getting no reply. The little engine was whirring away and we were making some headway but I new we were on the top of the tide and at any moment the river would change its course and would not be in our favour.

S uddenly we received a call from a tug that was making his way up the river and heading for the locks . The skipper said he heard my calls and radioed the locks on my behalf , he stated that the Dock Master had heard my calls but was unable to return them. As the tug came into view he once again radioed me and asked did we require his assistance but as we were making around three knots I replied that we would probably make it under our own steam.
He kindly said he would position the tug in front of us and escort us back to the locks.
When we reached the lock I cannot tell you how relieved we both were ,we had just escaped from the second highest tide rise and fall in the world .

The staff at the locks were once again very commendable and they manhandled us out of the lock and back into the Cumberland Basin where they picked out a nice spot for us and said we would be safe there till we could get any necessary repairs completed.

Monday19th July.

The day was saved today by the lockkeepers friend Mark Loveday , he was the fleet mechanic for the local narrow boat company and he fitted us in between jobs. He replaced the impeller in the water pump and the water trap in the exhaust system which was the cause for all the smoke and steam we encountered out in the river.
Ron, the second in command on the locks came to see if we were ok and he gave Irene a bag of home grown vegetables he had just dug up from his garden . Irene returned the compliment with a bottle of wine we acquired in France.

Tuesday 20th July.

It was a fine morning and the weather forecast predicted a force 3 to 4 . At 0915hrs we were back out through the lock and making our way wearingly down the river and out into the Bristol Channel. As we cruised along between the Welsh and English coastlines the sky began to darken and soon the rain was thrashing against the cabin windows and as we approached West Nash, the East Cardinal buoy that lies off the Hugo Bank the sea was heaping up and throwing its might against our portside. We struggled on until we reached the Cardinal buoy at West Scar, we then turned to starboard and ran for the haven of Swansea marina . We now had the wind and rain behind us along with a large following sea . I had hoped to arrive here in daylight but we were now in total darkness. Irene came along side me and helped me find the approach channel and its lit buoys that would lead us to the safety of the marina. We had to go through two locks before entering the marina and when we got to our allotted berth we had completed 58.05 miles , the time was 21.15hrs and it was a force 5.

Wednesday 21st July

Irene's Grandson David has offered to text her with the weather forecast each morning and this morning his message read another force 5 also the bulletin at the marina read force 5 so we decided to wait for a more favourable window.

Thursday 22nd July.

We got a force 3 to 4 from the marina and we were advised to depart three hours after high water. The skies were still very overcast but the sea state was calm. We made our way out through the two locks and before long we were rounding Mumble Head. The weather held out for us and we were making good time until we were approached by a large rib . He informed us that we were in a firing practice area and we should evacuate the area . I told him that we were only seven miles from our plotted position St Gowan lt Racon and I intended to carry on even if I had to go further off shore. He replied that was a No No and insisted that I turn about and follow him.

He took us back 5miles where he had another yacht he had also stopped. He asked me to follow the other yacht as he had local knowledge and was going to Milford Haven which was also our destination. The yacht kept well inshore and we stayed behind him as requested. It was late in the afternoon when we turned into Dale and moored alongside the floating pontoon . We had completed 62 miles Including the ten miles we were forced to retrace.

Friday 23rd

At 07.55 we cast of from the pontoon and when we rounded St Ann's Head we could not believe the state of the sea .The rip tides that are charted off Skomer Island were with us sooner than expected I steered the boat further off shore to try and escape the battering we were enduring but it was all to no avail . We saw another yacht that had left Dale the same time as us turn tale and dash back for cover. We considered doing the same ourselves but for some unknown reason we carried on, maybe the fact that we had had two separate weather forecasts both predicting force 3 to 4.The rough water stayed with us to well after Skomer Island and then calmed down to around a force 3 . We were now approaching St Davids Head and the notorious Bishops and Clearks . Remembering the ordeal we had experienced on the passage on the way down the coast. We gave them all a very wide berth and we stayed well out till we cleared Bais Bank and the we made our way into Fishguard . We purposely picked up a drying mooring so I could have look at the stern gland which was still leaking. The time was 15.30 and we logged another 29 miles. When the boat had dried out I popped over the side armed with one or two spanners and I found the bolts on the cutlass bearing were loose but when I tried to tighten the nuts the whole bolt turned. Irene got a spanner on one of the bolt heads from the inside and I tightened the nut. We were unable to tighten the other bolt because the prop shaft covered the bolt head. We later moved to a deep water mooring so we could get an early start in the morning.

Saturday 24th July.

We dropped the mooring at 06.30hrs leaving Fishguard behind and we were soon heading out across Cardigan Bay.
This mornings weather forecast read 3to 4 and the sea state seemed to verify that but once again the weather started to deteriorate in the afternoon. As we were approaching Bardsey Island I new of the rip tides that greet you at Devils tail so I moved more to the right on my approach. But the wind was now blowing the top end of a force 5 and we were once again at the mercy of the elements. As we neared the Bardsley Sound we had the Bastram Shoal on the port side and the Devils Ridge on the starboard side. We were now in a very big sea and at this point I had to decide whether to go through the sound or divert and go around Bardsey Island .On the chart it indicates that the tide runs at 5 to 6 knots through the Sound and there are rip tides surrounding Bardsey Island . I did not know the state of the tide so I called the Coastguard and asked for advice. The Coastguard asked for our present position, and what speed I could maintain. I gave him the required information and he said we would be o.k. to proceed through the sound.

When we entered the sound the sea calmed down giving us a little respite. But when we cleared the Island and turned North we were back in the rip tides.

This time the waves were astern of us and it was a little more comfortable. The bad weather stayed with us till we finally reached Porth Dinilaen. We made our way in but the moorings were bobbing up and down and they were very uncomfortable so we made our way inshore as far as possible without grounding. We had logged another 48 miles. Irene received a few text messages, one stated that fourteen boats had left Glasson for Conway on the club family cruise. We knew that they would eventually arrive at Caernarfon and we could possibly meet up with them. We later had some alarming news that one of our club boats had run into trouble in the heavy seas and her crew Dave and Dermot had to be rescued, unfortunately the boat Esmeralda, a catamaran sank.

Sunday 25th July.

We had a miserable night on the moorings and this morning was no better. I was feeling a little green around the gills and the thought of any breakfast was out of the question. This was the second time we had moored at Porth Diniaen and I vowed it would be the last. We had to wait until 13.00 hrs before we could leave to catch the tide right over the Caernarfon bar. When the time arrived we cast off, and I can tell you I could not get away fast enough. We had a good sail up to Caernarfon and we were extremely grateful to be welcomed into the marina. We had logged 15 miles.

Shortly afterwards Irene rang her Daughter Angela to tell her of our arrival and Bill, Irene's Son In Law arranged to come and take her home and see her Brother Bob whose health had now seriously deteriorated.
I could see the look of great relief on Irene's face as she waved goodbye and headed North. I knew she was in for a very traumatic time when she finally got to her brothers side. Probably for the last time.

Monday.26thJuly.

Whilst Irene was away I had time to sit down and reflect on the bad weather we have encountered since we have returned across the channel to Britain. We have gone through some very stressful hours at sea and probably been trying to achieve to many long passages. I think the strain is now getting to me and goodness knows how Irene is coping with the worry of her brothers illness on top of all this strain. Maybe when we meet the our friends from the club our spirits will be lifted.

Tuesday 27th July. Irene returned with Angela and Bill they are going to stay the night at the Black Buoy Hotel and we are all going to The Royal Yacht Club tonight along with club members Alan Fleetwood and his family they arrived this morning on their new boat River Dance.
Irene told Les the barman at The Royal Yacht Club that the rest of our club members were due tomorrow. Les said he would organise a buffet for us all tomorrow evening.

Wednesday 28th July.

The fleet from Glasson Sailing Club arrived at 0800hrs,we had a busy day exchanging stories and later we all met at the club and enjoyed the buffet that Les had prepared for us.

Thursday 29th July.

We stayed around the marina today and in the evening we all went to Weatherspoons for lunch followed by another gathering at the Royal Yacht Club.

Friday 30th July.

It was arranged that all boats would go across to
Abba Meniai for a barbeque and we would also have a knockout competition playing Boulles. Irene and I were the lucky winners.
Saturday 31st July. We spent a relaxing day walking along the beautiful beach and we had a picnic in the sand dunes . In the evening we returned with the tide to Caernarfon marina and later made our way back to see our friend Les at the club. Our spirits were not low now thanks to all the friendship and comradeship we had participated in the last few days.

Sunday1st August.

We received the very sad news that Irene's brother Bob had passed away.
Irene was so upset so we discussed the possibility of her returning home but we decided that we could sail home within two days and the fact that most of the club members would be returning up north we would be sailing back in company.

Monday 2nd August.

it's a lovely day today so we headed out of the marina at 09.30hrs heading for Beaumaris were we planned to stay the night and then return home to Glasson the following morning. After negotiating the Swellies we arrived at Beaumaris only to find that there was lots of activity going on and there seemed to be no moorings available. The weather forecast we received this morning gave
force 3 to 4 so after a short discussion we decided to go for home. We would be arriving in the dark which is a thing I don't like to do but at least we would be back home.
We made our way round Puffin Island at the North West entrance and on to Ten Feet Bank the water here was quite disturbed but we paid it no heed knowing the confluence of the tides at this point. By the time we had reached the Four Fathom Bank the sea was up to its old tricks again .We could not believe how about an hour earlier we were in bright sunshine and a relatively calm sea and now we were once again in a full blown storm. I can only describe the situation as if someone had turned the light off and turned a food blender into the sea. We still kept our nerve and as might would have it we carried on. After for hours of being tossed around and shaken from side to side we were virtually in the same spot at Four fathom Bank . I estimate that these seas were by far the worse conditions we had encountered on the whole trip. The compass was going haywire and my trusty chart plotter had given up the ghost, obviously because we were not moving the 2 knots it needs to function . I reckon we were in a pretty poor state and when Irene declared that the engine seemed unusually hot I turned tail and hoped to return to the safety of Beaumaris. Once we had about turned the boat seemed to pick her feet up and we flew back to the Menai Straits and on to moorings at Beaumaris where all the previous activity had now ceased. After picking up a mooring we were approached by a launch and the chap on the tiller inform us that it was regatta week at Beaumaris and he would be grateful if we could vacate the mooring as soon as possible as its owner would properly return shortly. We informed him of our plight and we had a problem with our engine . He was very helpful and said he would return later and find us a safe place to berth.
As high water approached the launched returned and the helmsman asked if we could follow him to Gallows Point Where we could moor safely and stay as long as we like.
As we approached the shoreline he told me to drop an anchor astern about two boat lengths out whilst he took my bow line ashore .We had done 23 miles.

Once we were settled in Irene once again rang her daughter Angela and told her of our demise and Angela promised to arrive the following day and take her home so she could attend her brothers funeral.

Tuesday 3 rd August.

During the day I found two of the local lads who were prepared to have a look at the engine and they reported it was more than likely the cylinder head gasket that had blown . Later when Irene rang from home I informed her of the bad news. She said that she would contact our friend Alec Wilson to see if he could help us out.

Wednesday 4th August.

The gentleman that had helped us find a mooring on Monday turned out to be a prominent member of The North West Venturers Yacht Club and he had arranged that I could use all the facilities provided at the club house .
It was Friday evening when Irene returned in our car so we not be completely marooned at beaumaris and she had some good news that our friend Alec would be arriving early Saturday morning.

Saturday7th August.

Alec stripped the engine cylinder head and confirmed it was indeed the gasket that had blown. He stayed the night with us and returned home leaving us to wait for the parts he had ordered from Dickies at Bangor.
We had to wait until Friday13th of August before the gasket arrived so we returned home and arranged to pick Alec up on Saturday the following morning and drive back to the boat. Irene was relieved to hear that Alec was prepared to sail the boat back to Glasson with me after the repairs have been completed. So she returned home earnestly anticipating the phone call to say that the engine had been repaired.

Sunday 9th August

Alec gave the engine the thumbs up after a good testing and after studying the tide table it was decided our time of departure would be 08.30hrs. The weather was not to clever and at the time we were about to cast off we were sitting through a rather bad squall so we delayed our departure. The weather forecast had given a S,E, force 3 to 4 with a 5 later. Around 10.00hrs there seemed a vast improvement in the weather so we decided to give it a go. As we approached Puffin Island the sea was a little unsettled to say the least so we decided to go passed on the South East side.

I would say that the wind was the top end of a force 4 until lunch time and then started to ease off to around a force 3 which stayed with us for the rest of the trip. As time elapsed we had several options where we would make for and probably make Glasson on tomorrows high tide. Alec kept his eye on the engine and gave me the thumbs up after each inspection and all in all we had a reasonable sail home, be it rather slow and boring. By the time we reached Lune Deeps we realised that we would be able to go down the river Lune as we would arrive at Lune No1 buoy around two hours before high water. But the journey was not over yet and when we approached the River Wyre Fairway Buoy I had one more little task thrown at me. We were in complete darkness and I was at the helm whilst Alec with his vast experience was spotting the buoys. He suddenly brought my attention the fact that seven ships (not boats) were all converging upon us. I was already watching the Ro Ro ferry coming out of Fleetwood and I ask Alec should I take evasive action and go the wrong side of the buoyed channel but he told me to hold my course. I must admit I was rather daunted at the sight of one of those big ferries heading directly towards us but eventually they all passed without incident.

Alec must have seen the look on my face and he wryly smiled and stated don't worry( ' you get used to it'). I would make him a saint if it was possible.
As we headed down the Lune cannel we struggled to find some of the elusive lit buoys but we eventually made Abbey Light and the rest was easy. The clubhouse was lit up as we passed and we could see a small gathering of some of our club members welcoming us home.

As we entered the dock our engine cut out and Dave the lockkeeper threw us a line and pulled us along side the dock wall he was kindly assisted by Dave Booth and together the towed us into a nice snug corner in the Harbour and made us fast.

The time 12 .40 hrs and we had sailed 64miles.

We have been away from home for 15 weeks and in that time the grand total of miles we have covered is 1725 miles.

( Don't ever mention the learning curve.)