A
ROUND TRIP TO FRANCE
TOM AND IRENE RILEY On the 12th May 2004 we started our journey to go South through the French canals on a round trip. Going through the lock gates at 05.30 we headed south for Beaumaris on the Isle of Anglesey. The trip down was quite uneventful the sea state was calm but there was quite a lot of fog around. As we neared Anglesey the weather deteriorated with the fog thickening and rain was now lashing down making it very difficult to see. Eventually we could make out the shape of Puffin Island and we slowly made way into the Menai Strait. Once in the Strait's the weather change for the better and we made our way down the buoyed channel and picked up a mooring at Beaumaris. The time 18.45 hrs. We had achieved around 63 miles. We had a peaceful night on the moorings and after working out what time to leave to go through the Swellies we let go at 17.45 hrs the weather was good and we made good progress arriving at Caernarfon our chosen destination at 20.00hrs a total of 9.30 miles. We were met on the harbour pontoon by a chap who kindly took our mooring lines and welcomed us in, he turned out to be the commodore of Plymouth Harbour Yacht Club his boat a large cruiser was called Finale Boat. Caernarfon is one of our favourite places and after several visits we know our way round quite well (good chippies, beer, etc,) so we made our way up to Sainsburys supermarket for the last half hour of opening, what a bonus, almost everything was reduced to at least half price so we bought lots of goodies (cream cakes etc) we then made our way back to the boat and a meal fit for a king. Friday 14th May, We awoke to a fine sunny morning and at 07.10 made our way out of the
harbour to pick our way over the Caernarfon bar, the sea was very calm
and the sun was belting down and by the time we reached Porth Dinllaen,
which we had intended as our next stop we decided to go onto Fishguard.
We went through Bardsey Sound and out across Cardigan Bay arriving at
Fishguard at 21.30hrs the weather was still good around force 2-3 and
a beautiful sunset. We nosed our way in and Morning arrived to the sound of small engines and lots of shouting all around us. I popped my head out to see what was going on there was several boat tenders going to and fro, some yachts had let go of there moorings. I asked a passing yacht what was happening and he told me it was a club meeting and that they intended to race down to a place called Solva. We looked it up on the chart and decided it might be a good idea to pop in behind them and have a nice sail down the coast well inshore with the benefit of their local knowledge. The flotilla started to leave there must have been a dozen a more boats in all and we followed in behind them around the Northern Breakwater, the time was 09.30hrs. The sea state was as we left it yesterday, hardly a ripple and there was lots of sunshine. What a wonderful sight all the boats had their sails up shining in the morning sunshine and reflecting on the clear blue sea. We cruised for some ten miles in what I could describe as perfect conditions and we kept well clear of the so called race, I say this because there was no wind. Irene decided that as things were going so well she would go and catch up with some sleep so off she went to her bunk. I could see on the arisen what looked like a large fog bank but I paid it no heed after all I was still following the pack. I started to pay more attention when the boats started disappearing one by one. I was soon into the fog but I could see one boat at about 300 yards so I increased speed a little to keep tabs on him. To my dismay he to disappeared and here I was approaching St Davids Head. On my charts I had worked out a route which would take me well clear of the Bishops and Clerks, and in the present position I found myself I decided the best plan would be to get back to my original sail plan which meant turning back to retrace my track or cutting across towards Bais Bank. This meant running the gauntlet with the rip tides and over falls, I decided on the latter. By now the fog was down to about two boat lengths, I decided to head for my nearest planned waypoint. All went well till I started to hit the riptides I could not believe it the sea was so rough and the waves seemed so steep and high. Poor old Salty was taking a right bashing. I was not doing to well either, the prow was going well clear of the water then slamming down with great force, it didn't take long before Irene popped her head out of her bunk to see what was going on. I told her to stay where she was and hold on. The agony went on for what seemed a life time and we eventually broke through the fog to my portside I could see the Bishops and Clerks and they were too near for my liking, (not a pretty sight) so I opened up to full throttle and thought lets get the hell out of here. Eventually I reached the waypoint of my original plan and I was now
well out of harms reach and guess what? The sea had calmed down and the
sun was back with us. I took time to reflect what might have been, how
foolish I had been and how lucky we were to get through it all unscathed,
(never again). Irene eventually arose and joined me for the rest of the
trip. I can tell you we kept well clear Skomer Island the Broad Sound
and Stockholm Island with all their rip tides. Sunday 16th May. We arose early and let go our moorings at 06.00 hrs our planned destination
was Padstow, the weather was once again very calm and the sea state was
like a mill pond. There was plenty of big ship movement for the first
hour or so and we even had to alter course to go behind a big freighter.
Once out of the way of the big stuff we settled down to our long journey
across the outer Bristol Channel. They stayed with us for around an hour and then disappeared as soon as
they had appeared. entrance to the river Camel and we left them to port, by now we were
looking for lights rather than land marks as we edged our way in, I could
see one or two breakers off to port but concentrated more on getting down
the river with Irene doing an excellent job of buoy spotting in the now
thicker fog and complete darkness. I was continually calling the harbour
master to make sure our entrance to Padstow Harbour was permissible, luckily
we were only progressing at a snails pace when we came to a sudden halt,
we had run aground I went up to the bow to see what was around us and
there right in front of us was the lock gates and they were closed. I
returned to my radio and once again tried to raise the lock keeper to
no avail eventually the radio answered with a call from the ferryman,
he explained that he runs the ferry across the Camel from Padstow to Porthilly
on the other side, he went on to tell me that there will be no one on
duty at the locks until 03.00hrs. The time now was 21.30hrs, he also advised
me to pick up a buoy in the river when the tide raised. I had to sit down
and think about this, it all meant that I had actually arrived at Padstow
in the fog in the dark and come over the bar at low water, (phew I must
be good). Anyhow the water did eventually rise and with the help of a
good strong lamp we picked up a mooring in the centre of the river. The
fog had lifted and we could see other boats on their moorings. I do not
recall the time but we were both very tired, we noticed that all the boats
had anchor lights on, so I decided that I would wait for the locks and
Irene should get some shuteye. When we arose from our slumber the sun greeted us and we were in for a nice sunny afternoon. We went to see the harbour master to pay our dues, got a new tide table and topped up the diesel. Irene disappeared and returned with a birthday present for me, a lovely collage with a boat and lots of nautical bits around it. She also brought some rather scrumptious cream cakes and we had our own little birthday party. I opened my birthday cards and was really touched at one from the members at Glasson Sailing club wishing me well and a safe journey. We spent the rest of the day enjoying the sunshine. Tuesday the 18th we decided to get an early start and make our way round Lands End and on to Penzance. In the harbour it was quite foggy but you could see the wall on the other side and as it was still very early maybe the fog would lift when the sun gets to it. We let go went through the Harbour gates and turned into the Channel. A small fishing vessel had just gone ahead of me so I thought I would follow him down the channel, he soon disappeared and we could not see anything, eventually we spotted the port hand buoy that sits just outside the harbour entrance so we did a sharp turn round inching our way along the harbour wall and back to the safety of the harbour.
The fog did lift around lunch time and once again we enjoyed basking in the sunshine. The next morning Wednesday the 19th May we were up and ready at 04.00hrs, this time I made a point of going up on the harbour wall and looking down the river. I was pleased to see the river was clear of fog so we cast off and made our way once again out into the river. The time was 05.30hrs. We were soon off Stepper Point and making our way down past Gulland
Rock which we gave a wide berth. A few dolphins came to have a look at
us and the sun appeared making it a very pleasant morning. We headed on
to Trevose Head and on past the Stones. (keeping well out of course).
We topped up with diesel made use of the showers and did a few errands in the town. The following morning was another nice day and with a good weather forecast we decided to keep going while the going was good. At 05.00hrs we set off, Fowey being our next target. The going was once again excellent and we made good time. When we were off Lizard Point a good way off I might add, Irene shouted alarmingly that there was something in front of us. I took evasive action and turned slightly to port I then went to look over where Irene was pointing and to my amazement saw a very large basking shark no more than two yards away from the boat. It was a lot larger than the boat, we were very lucky to have missed it. We later heard on the radio that there had been three of them in the area. We arrived at Fowey at 17.45hrs, 39 miles under the belt. We moored on the floating pontoon and settled in for the night. I must say at this stage that Fowey is one of the most beautiful places I have ever visited, with its houses all painted in pastel colours reflecting into water it makes what I would term an artists paradise. I promised myself I must paint it one day. The next morning we sailed across to the towns pontoon where we could fill the water tank and have a quick look around the town we bought another tide table paid for the moorings and cast off at 11.15 hrs heading for Salcolme. Once again another nice day as we headed along the coast. Off Plymouth
we saw what we presumed to be an air sea rescue with a helicopter lifting
a person out of the sea. We hoped the rescue was successful. We finally
arrived at Salcolme and was met by the harbour master in his launch he
directed us to a pickup buoy where we stayed for the night. Mileage for
the day was 38 miles. And had worked in Blackburn. He said that because we were from Lancashire he could not charge us What a nice guy. ACROSS THE ENGLISH CHANNEL. Sunday the 23rd of May. At 03.45 we were awakened by the alarm that I had set last night, we
wanted to get off as soon as the tide allowed. We intended to cross the
Channel from Salcolme to Braye on Alderney, in the Channel Isles. It was
a lovely crisp morning, still rather dark but you could make all the reverent
land marks from the lights twinkling down from the buildings in the harbour.
The small fishing vessel which was moored close to us was making ready
for the off, you could plainly see the skipper busily tending to his lines.
I went up front to let go of the mooring line and as I did so, the fishing
vessel went by, we watched him make his way down the buoyed channel and
followed in behind him. Leaving a harbour like Salcolme in the dark is
something I would not like to do very often. We followed the fishing vessel
around what seemed to be a kind of dog leg before entering the main channel.
We were now on our own and as we slowly made our way to the two high cliffs
that start the entrance to the bar and the open sea. As we approached
wolf rock we could see a yacht off to port and he was moving stern first,
he was obviously dragging his anchor and he was amongst the cliff and
the rocks that laid all around. We tried in vain to call him on the radio
and we also tried to call the coastguard and the harbour master. We got
no answer from anybody. I presumed because we were between the cliffs
and that we only had a small mast they could not hear my transmission.
Due to the rocks that lay between us we could not go to his assistance
so we kept to our course and hoped they would come to no harm. We later
heard our message being relayed to the coastguard. It was getting towards lunchtime when we finally raised our heads. The harbour was very busy with lots of small boats scurrying around and one of them the harbour masters launch came along side to take our particulars. He gave us some information on shops and places to visit. After lunch we hailed a water taxi and went ashore for a nosy around and pay our mooring fees at the harbour masters office. The harbour master was so helpful, he advised us about the tides and the best time to leave to catch the flow to our next destination, Saint - Vast - La - Hougue to which he kindly advised us to visit. He also gave us last years almanac of the French harbours and tide runs. We then went to the small supermarket to buy one or two essentials after which we made our way back to Salty Fiddler Via the water taxi. Irene then made a wonderful meal which consisted of roast chicken; roast potatoes, carrots and apple sauce followed by some lovely cream cakes acquired while at the shops. We opened a bottle of wine and relaxed for the rest of the day in the nice warm sunshine. Next morning Tuesday the 24th May we were once again busy making ready for an early start when the skipper off the yacht moored next to us came across in his tender, he explained he had seen our ensign and wondered where we had sailed from. I told him Glasson which seemed to satisfy his curiosity, we exchanged a few pleasantries and he then returned to his boat. Shortly afterwards he made his way back to our boat and asked 'did I mean the Glasson that lies on the river Lune'. I replied 'yes that's right Morecambe Bay in Lancashire' he returned 'you have come all the way down the West coast of England and across the English Channel in a twenty two foot boat, well I must congratulate you both and asked to shake both our hands' he asked if we would accept a new tide almanac which he held out to me, he said he has two copies and it might help us to have one. I gladly excepted. He said his goodbyes and returned to his boat Summer Song. The time was now 08.15 and we let go the mooring two and half hours before low water to catch the tide flowing Eastwards. We were soon out of the Aldeney fairway and we turned eastwards to cruise down the French coast. We were now going with the tidal flow and we were reaching ten knots at times averaging seven to eight knots. We had a good day, the sun shone and the sea stayed so calm. We enjoyed the ride and we were soon looking for the buoy that would lead us into Saint-Vast-La-Houge . As we approached the marina pontoons a young lady came along side to take our lines, she was from the large yacht on the next pontoon, she was called Bonita and her yacht was called Mystical. We had arrived at 16.20hrs and we had sailed 50 miles. We stepped ashore and we were now on French soil and at this point according
Thursday 27th May another nice day we walked into the town Irene had her hair done and
we visited the chandlery and bought some much needed charts we also bought
some cream cakes so we could return the compliment and invite our new
neighbours on board for tea and cakes (see how the other half live). We
also invited Bonita, who promptly brought some champers. Our guests stayed
for around three hours on the back of our boat amongst the petrol cans
and other clutter that Irene had skilfully hidden under some posh towels.
Friday the 28th May The weather forecast shown in the harbour masters office read force 5 so the decision to stay and meet Bonita's husband was an easy one, we were invited to dinner on Bonita's boat along with Norman and Elaine off Foxy B. Bonita's husband Jon advised me to make Deauville our next port of call he said it was a much nicer marina and as he berths his boat there, he and Bonita could meet up with us. Saturday the 29th May . Our friends were up to release our lines and wave us goodbye, the time was 06.00hrs and the sun was just about peeping over the horizon, we set our course and off we set along the coast. A good way into our passage the weather made a turn for the worst, around a force 5 with rain lashing on the cockpit windscreen and just to make our dilemma a little more difficult the windscreen wiper packed in and fell off. We could make out a large ferry approaching on our port side and as he past us Irene went to the chart to see where he was heading and as we were only a mile or so off shore (to which I hasten to add we could not see). We deduced he was going in at Ouistreham and as the entrance did not look to difficult we decided that it was also the place for us. We found our way into the buoyed channel and eventually moored to the waiting pontoon to wait for the entrance lock to open. The green lights told us it was our turn to enter the lock and as we proceeded we were joined by a host of boats of all shapes and sizes, the lock a very large one housed all the boats with room to spare. The gates soon opened and we were soon turning sharp to port and into the marina. The marina was unbelievably full but we eventually found an empty space only to be told it was private but we moored there anyway, two other small boats came alongside and rafted up to us, so we thought we would not be moved any way. The time was17.30hrs and we had sailed 46 miles. The two boats that had rafted up against us were French and there crew quickly made themselves known to us, they invited us onboard for a drink and we gladly excepted. I took the flagon of wine we had bought in St Vaast but they insisted on drinking their Pernod. Irene had a few glasses but I stuck to the wine. They spoke good English and went on to tell us that the skippers father who was 84 had served with the Royal Air Force during world war two and that he had been awarded the Military Cross. They had come to Ouisteham for the D Day celebrations and they went on to tell us that the house on the river was the first house to be liberated during the D Day invasion. Sunday 30th May. We said goodbye to our French comrades made our way to the lock and was
on our way at 11.15 hrs. We made our way slowly along the coast so as
we would meet the oncoming tide. Reaching the Seine we still kept our
speed down and slowly made our way down to Honflleur keeping well out
of the way of the big ships that were going the same way. Monday 31st May. We were up and out early this morning , we went into the town again to
take in the art shops and do a little sight seeing. The marina was situated
in the middle of the town and we were invited to berth our boat there,
but the entrance was entered though a swing bridge so we declined because
we needed a early start when we were leaving. Tuesday 1st June. We moved the boat nearer the marina so we could top up with water and fuel and then made ready for the journey down the Seine. We were both quite apprehensive at the thought of going down the Seine as you have to complete the journey to Rouen on one tide. (That is like us you have a small boat with a small engine.) INLAND FRANCE Wednesday 2nd June. It was a damp misty morning as we motored down to the open locks .The time was 05.45hrs and you could just make out the suspension bridge at Tancarville which was about a mile down stream.
At 06.30 the lock gates opened and with heart in mouth we entered the Seine knowing there was no chance of turning back. It was 1 hour after low water and already the river was running fast. We were now doing 10 knots and Irene was singing (how would you like to be down by the Seine with me.) which I supposed calmed the situation a little. As we approached Tancarville we could see some very large ships coming out of the locks and disappearing down the river. As we continued we encountered one or two ships and several large barges coming towards us from astern and as they overtook us we had to rapidly get astern of them to avoid their enormous wash. We also had to run the gauntlet with the many ferries that cross the Seine as she passed through the river side towns, they seemed to wait for us to almost draw level to the point of crossing then they would come charging across at us.
We arrived at Bassin St Gervais, Rouen. The time was 17.30 hrs and we had completed 107 kilometres. We were expecting some kind of marina here as this is the place to lower your mast .We circled around the basin for a while and we were eventually instructed to moor against a battered old barge . The harbour master then came down to meet us and he said we could moor for one night free of charge but at our own risk and he went on to advise us not to leave the boat unattended. He said he could return the following morning with some men to lower the mast at a cost of 130 Euros. (What a joke). We informed the harbour master that we would lower the masts ourselves and next morning we were up early doing just that. Thursday 3rd June. We were soon ready for the off and when we radioed the harbour master
he advised to wait till after the bore had arrived. (what bore?) We did
wait but we saw no bore and when we thought it was safe to do so we set
off on our merry way. We were pleased to be saying goodbye to the basin
in Rouen there was no facilities for yachts and the place was very remote
and dirty .They obviously don't cater for pleasure craft at this port
.
We enjoyed the rest of the day meandering down the river taking in all the wonderful sights that abound the Seine and finally after 76k we arrived at a beautiful little town called Les Andelys. Off to port there is a small marina and we made it our home for the next few days. The marina is overlooked by the Chateau Guillard, this was the home of Richard the Lion heart. Saturday 5th June . Today we spent the morning visiting the town and the afternoon sunbathing
on the grassy banks that surround the marina. We had covered 52.80 miles and we arrived at 18.45 hrs. Port Maron was not a nice place, but because we had encountered a lot of barge traffic we decided any port in a storm. Monday 7th June. We could not wait to leave this morning and we were away at 07.30hrs. The music that went on to 0300hrs was still ringing in our ears it came from the boat that last night we had to raft next to. The boat was occupied by some drunken bum , so we thought it best to keep quite and get away early next morning. We travelled another 20 miles and found a nice little mooring at the
side of a beautiful lake overlooked by a hotel. I think the moorings were
for visitors to the hotel but nobody bothered us. Later we made our way
down to down river to Port Marly where we moored alongside an old barge
in the tributary. We had covered 42 miles in total. |